SINGAPORE
by: Gareth Powell

To understand
Singapore you need to realize that it is the extension
of one man's intelligence, dream and drive. And that man is Lee
Kuan Yew, the original prime minister of the Republic of Singapore.
Yes, it is true he was aided in his task by the people of Singapore. It
is interesting to ponder on what would have happened to Singapore
if Lee Kuan Yew, one of the remarkable men of his century, had not
been present.

Lee Kuan Yew is a nonya. That is he can claim both Malay and
Chinese heritage. He was born in 1923 and was prime minister of
Singapore from 1959 to 1990. And during his rule, as a simple
statement of fact, Singapore went from being something of a
backwater to becoming the most prosperous nation in Southeast
Asia.

Lee Kuan Yew went to Cambridge University where he got a double
starred first which is not something that is given out with the rations.
He became a lawyer and was admitted to the English bar but
returned to Singapore to work, as a committed socialist, with the
unions.

In 1963 Lee took Singapore into the newly created Federation of
Malaysia.

This created all sorts of problems. In Singapore 75 percent of the
members of the PAP were Chinese and there was much tension
between Chinese and Malays. There was communal rioting in
Singapore and in 1965 Lee Kuan Yew was told by his Malaysian
colleagues in the federal government that Singapore must leave the
federation.

Singapore had to secede and it then became a sovereign state with
Lee Kuan Yew as its first prime minister.

It is fair to say that in return for a mildly authoritarian style of
government that sometimes infringed on civil liberties Lee Kuan
Yew brought Singapore honest and efficient administration and
spectacular prosperity.

Lee Kuan Yew resigned the office of prime minister in November
1990.

It is, perhaps, sad that such a great man who did not believe in
inherited power has appointed his children in just such a manner.
Does not affect the tourist. Possibly affects the future of Singapore.

Singapore is not a big place. It sits at the southern tip of the Malay
Peninsula 137 km north of the Equator. The main part is Singapore
Island and there are also about 60 very small islands.

The main island is connected to Peninsular Malaysia by a road and
rail causeway which bridges the Johor Strait.

Singapore does not depend on tourism for a living. It is the largest
port in Southeast Asia and one of the busiest in the world.

Singapore is not just a small island. It is also a very flat island. Most
of it is less than 15m above sea level and its highest point is Timah
Hill which soars to 162m.

SINGAPORE WEATHER
Singapore is near the equator and in the monsoon region. The
average monthly temperature varies from about 27 degrees C in
June to 25 degrees C in January and the difference is not
noticeable. The wettest time of the year is November-March and the
period with the least amount is May to September. Not that it makes
very much difference.

Rain falls somewhere on the island every day of the year. Which is
why it is very green. Do not let the rain worry you. In the constant
warm temperature you very quickly dry out.

There is not much left of the original
Singapore. There is a fragment
of evergreen rain forest preserved around catchment areas and
some mangrove vegetation survives in the Kranji area on the
northwest side of the island but otherwise it is all cultivated in one
way or another.

The city is in the south of the island but, in truth, most of the island of
Singapore has now been built up and over. At one time it looked as
though every old building in Singapore would be knocked down and
replaced with a new and shining skyscraper. Eventually the penny
dropped and the government decided that refurbishing rather than
demolishing the once-common Chinese shop-house would not be
a bad idea. And keeping the Raffles hotel operating in its old
premises but with a new style was part of the campaign.

Nevertheless the Housing and Development Board (HDB) has
changed forever the face of Singapore and has housed a staggering
four-fifths of the population high-rise HDB flats located in housing
estates and new towns.

SINGAPORE LANGUAGE
About three quarters of the population of Singapore is Chinese with
Malays next and Indians the third.

But it does not break down as easily as that. Nearly half of the
Chinese originate from Fukien province and speak Amoy; a third is
from Swatow and speaks Teochew and most of the rest are
Cantonese. That is three different dialects which are not
understandable by all although, of course, written Chinese is a
unifying force.

The Malays are pretty much one group although some of them
speak Indonesian dialects which although very similar to Malay have
some vocabulary differences. The Indians are the biggest mixture of
them all. The majority are Tamils but there are also Malayalis and
Sikhs as well as Pakistanis and Sinhalese.

There are four official languages - English, Mandarin Chinese,
Malay, and Tamil. And there is a fifth which although not recognized
officially, is distinct enough to be the subject of several learned
papers. This is Singaporean which is Singapore's very own version
of the English language.

It contains words and grammatical from all the languages of
Singapore. Therefore "Must be, lah" is an affirmative declaration
while, "What to do now, lah?" is an expression of helplessness in
the face of fate. It is a lovely and expressive language based totally
on English. If you speak English you will never have language
problems in Singapore.

Singapore is a singularly pleasant place to visit. It is the ideal
destination for someone making their first foray into Asia.

SINGAPORE VACATION TIPS
The chances of your being robbed in Singapore are pretty close to
nil. And if you are, the local constabulary will move heaven and earth
to fang the wretched miscreant and return your goods.

The roads are spotlessly clean - drop a bus ticket and you will very
probably be fined. The road crossings are safe - go jaywalking and
once again your wallet will be lightened. The roadside food stalls
are the cleanest in the world. No one gets gippy tummy in Singapore.

The developers are something else again. Sadly, like developers all
over the world their motto is 'nothing exceeds like excess'. Almost
everything that was old and worthwhile and interesting came under
the wrecker's ball.

Singapore eventually saw the folly of this and you can still find parts
of the old Singapore.

The Tourist Promotion Board maintains a flood, a deluge, an
inundation of brochures telling of the wonders of the city state. But it
bridles madly at the sign of any criticism.

Despite this nonsense Singapore is a most attractive place to visit -
for one reason. The people. Singaporeans are joyous, intelligent,
friendly. In the restaurants you are served with pleasure.

Singapore need never run a politeness campaign. Its people are the
politest and the warmest in Asia. Partially this has something to do
with the racial mix. Within Singapore, Malays, Chinese of several
varieties, Tamils and Europeans get on in the most amazing racial
harmony.

This harmony spills over to the visitor. In Singapore, I promise you,
the people positively love having you as an honored guest.

Pretty much all of the attractions in Singapore are man-made and of
relatively recent origin. It is astounding that on this flat little island so
much has been created to keep the visitor entertained.

What are the main attractions of Singapore? This is my list. Yours
will almost certainly be very different.

Food. You can eat yourself silly with 100 different cuisines and still
not have scratched the surface in Singapore.

My own view, formed after spending a lifetime in the area, is that the
food in Singapore – because of its wide range of styles - is arguably
the best in Asia.

You can eat very cheaply by sticking to the open air restaurants that
abound. They are all squeaky clean and serve ambrosia at discount
prices. The first place to try is the Satay Club on Elizabeth Walk and
then make your own discoveries.

SINGPORE ATTRACTIONS
The Jurong Bird Park. When I have business in Singapore I make it
a point to keep half a day clear to go and sit on my own in the Jurong
Bird Park. This has the largest aviary in the world. What they have
done is net off a valley so that there is a waterfall inside the aviary. It
brings balm to the soul.

Visit The Off-Shore Islands. It is easy to think that Singapore is just
one diamond shaped island for that is the way that it appears on
most maps. In fact there are several smaller islands that you can
visit.

Boats can be hired from Clifford Pier which is just across the road
from Change Alley. On the islands you will find an older, more
peaceful Singapore. One where Stamford Raffles - the man who
founded the place - would feel very much at home.

Visit The Tiger Balm Gardens. This place is truly a nonsense - but a
most enjoyable nonsense. Full of statues and grottoes and
buildings all garishly painted. They are, as I understand it, intended
to give you an idea how heaven and hell look in the Taoist religion.
Incidentally, Tiger Balm ointment, which provided the funds to build
this place, does cure what ails you.

Wallow In The Luxury Of An Up-Market Hotel. My theory is that the
local towkays - the millionaires - have all tried to one-up each other
in the construction of hotels. The result is that in Singapore you can
stay in a hotel with appointments and service you could simply not
afford anywhere else in the world.

Spend Time In One Of The Many Gardens. My favorite is the
Japanese Garden, again in Jurong. A well-designed Japanese
garden always gives me a special sense of peace. This is almost
certainly the best Japanese garden outside Japan.

And so it goes. The average visitor spends 3.7 days in Singapore
which is enough time to get the feel of the place, to go shopping, to
eat yourself stupid and to make instant but lasting friendships with
the local Singaporeans.

Then you can nip across the causeway to Malaysia. This is where
the real Asia begins.
Singapore is but a foretaste. For the first time
visitor it is difficult to think of a better introduction.

About The Author
Gareth Powell
This article is by Gareth Powell who runs
www.travelhopefully.com.
Gareth Powell has been travel editor of two metropolitan
newspapers, has written (and had published) eleven books and
has published many travel magazines.
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